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Tips for building large geometric LEGO models

(Written by William)

Being a fan of LEGO, chances are you’ve seen the work of Nathan Sawaya by now. His artwork features fantastic designs while only utilizing basic LEGO bricks. Most of us have never had the opportunity to work with that many LEGO pieces at one time, so it can be hard to grasp what it takes to make something really large with only one type of LEGO element.

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Enter LEGO’s community support team. About a year ago, our local LEGO club received a very large container of just 2×4 red bricks to support our events. A rough estimate would probably put the count over 5,000 bricks. Problem was they got stuck in storage, so the club only had a chance to play with them a handful of times. Recently I moved, which meant I now had the space to store this large treasure trove of basic pieces on behalf of my club. One day I woke up way before sunrise and couldn’t go back to sleep. So I did what any sleepless LEGO fan would do; raided the red bricks stash and… built a pyramid! This was my first experience making a large geometric LEGO model, so I thought I will share some of the things I learned in the process.

LEGO GEOMETRIC MODELS – IT’S ALL ABOUT PATTERNS

Large LEGO sculptures rely on two things; the ability to interlock bricks, and forming patterns. This means you will need to come up with patterns that can interlock the bricks to provide stability. Fortunately, the patterns don’t have to be complex. For my pyramid I used a total of two patterns to make the basic structure, and for interlocking the bricks I simply inverted those patterns. So, you could say I used four patterns; two patterns used two different ways.

By the time I was done building, I had a roughly three-foot tall pyramid that I could pick up and move around easily, even though it was hollow inside. In fact the construction was so solid, I had a hard time taking it apart afterwards. To get a better understanding of how this all works, let me walk you through how the top few layers were built.

LEGO GEOMETRIC MODELS – PYRAMID BUILDING STEPS

Let’s start with the most square shape possible; take two 2×4 bricks and put them side by side. Now interlock those bricks by putting two more going the opposite way. What you end up with is a block that gives you a 4×4 stud area.

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For the next layer, we need the outer dimensions to be 6×6 studs, so we’ll add two more bricks and arrange them in an overlapping pattern. This time we have two bricks vertical and two bricks horizontal to form a square with a hollow center. We then invert the pattern to give stability. Finally, we add the 4×4 block we made earlier to go on top.

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Next we add two bricks and do what I call a “long and short” pattern. Two bricks go vertically on two ends and one brick goes on the top and bottom between them horizontally. This gives us an 8×8 outer square. Invert this pattern with two bricks horizontally at the top and bottom and one brick vertically on the sides for stability and you’re ready to add it to the rest.

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Then you move back to the overlapping pattern and so on. Each layer switches from the “long and short” pattern to the “overlapping” pattern. And if you didn’t notice, the very first layer was a “long and short” with the side-by-side bricks being the “long” and no bricks between them being the “short”.

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I would add here that building something like a pyramid you will want to start on the bottom layer first and gradually work your way up to the top. Securing more and more studs all at the same time from top to bottom will just end in trouble.

LEGO GEOMETRIC MODELS – UP-SCALING BRICKS

Another interesting technique I fooled around with was using basic bricks to make larger sized bricks. To do this, you need some very basic math skills. Start by figuring out how much bigger you want the brick to be.

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For example, you want a brick double in size. To accomplish this, simply double all the dimensions. So a 2×4 brick now needs to be 4×8 and two bricks thick, where as a 1×2 becomes a 2×4 that is two bricks thick.

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You can scale even further. For example you may want something four times the original size. So now your 2×4 is an 8×16 and four bricks thick. And that 1×2 is now 4×8 and four bricks thick. Just remember to multiply the length, width, and height equally, and you should be fine. And just like with the large geometric shapes, building larger bricks requires interlocking patterns.

If you have a lot of basic LEGO bricks you might want to experiment a bit with building basic geometric shapes. The process can set you up for understanding how to build very large LEGO models, sculptures, and even mosaics, and also how to make your LEGO designs stronger. If you don’t have enough basic bricks, I recommend the LEGO Classic Brick Boxes available at the Online LEGO Shop.

Shop LEGO Classic

What do you think? Have you ever built any large LEGO models just with basic LEGO bricks? Were you able to make it strong enough? Did you notice any patterns that made your model stronger and more interesting? Feel free to share and discuss in the comment section below! 😉

And you might also like to check out the following related posts:

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LEGO Ninjago Temple of Airjitzu modifications

(Written by Geneva – gid617)

The largest set in the LEGO Ninjago line, and one of the most gorgeous LEGO sets in its own right, the #70751 LEGO Ninjago Temple of Airjitzu dominates the Ninjago landscape with style! Despite its eye-catching color-scheme it has a peaceful look, and seems to be a great place for the ninja to make/ their headquarters between missions. You can check out the full review of the set from when it was first released here: LEGO Ninjago Temple of Airjitzu Review, and today we’re going to explore the great potential for modification that this set offers. 🙂

While the LEGO Ninjago Temple of Airjitzu looks great as it is, there were a few things about it that I wanted to see changed while conserving (if possible) the shadow around back – one of the highlights and main play features of this set. The blacksmith’s shop and little marketplace off to the sides – although neat in themselves – were just not working in the context for me, and they are not very accurate to the TV show. Plus, I wanted to have all those useful pieces available for other builds anyway.

Besides that – at least to my eyes – the rockwork at the base of the temple was less than stellar. This is to be expected in an official LEGO set, as building rocks can be very parts consuming. However since I had plenty of parts and time, I decided to give it a go and make some changes. Below is the result of the modifications I have made…

As you can see, the flanking buildings have vanished, replaced by fairly extensive sprawling rockwork. I went pretty much all out, pushing the Temple back farther and up slightly higher. A similar result could be achieved with less rockwork, if you choose to do so. And using a different shade of green to complement the gray would set a very different tone as well.

You’ll notice that the stairs were moved much further back. Previously, the stairs seemed to just run off into the little pond, which I found absurd. But I definitely wanted to keep the awesome curve of the steps. So I found a way to build the first couple of steps straight, and the next couple curved.

Adding so much rockwork out front meant that I had a much larger footprint to play around with. I really wanted to give the shadow a decent seating arrangement, so the ninja could watch the show without sitting on my hard desk. Not that a minifigure would really care, I suppose…

I was surprised to find that I didn’t need to change the basic mechanism for the shadow , just extend it a little further. In case you are wondering what the mechanism for the shadow looks like, below are some pictures of the original version. The LEGO nanofigures, snake, and flames cast shadows and appear to be moving, as the gears allow them to rotate while you turn an outside lever.

How it all works is that you slightly push on the wall (which is constructed on top of swivel-plates, so it can stick out ever so slightly) which turns the light brick on, while at the same time – by turning the dark-red lever – you can rotate the nanofigures and flames, creating a shadow effect on the outside. It is really a very clever mechanism!

Notice in the last picture how close the screen is to the edge of the building. This was one of the other features I wanted to change, and allow some seating for the ninja. By building the mechanism under the rocks instead of under the Temple, I was able to succeed fairly well.

First of all, I had to make sure that the changes I made did not affect performance. Fortunately, it was easy to conceal the swiveling wall, so in my version, all you have to do is push the lever in almost imperceptibly as you rotate it. It works perfectly smoothly, and was much easier to adjust than I had imagined – the LEGO designers did most of my work for me!

As you have probably noticed, I added two rows of seats for comfortable theatre viewing, and also built the theatre walls out of rock – a bit of needless flare.

The interior of the Temple underwent much fewer changes. The designers did a pretty good job of using space efficiently. I just added a bit of recreational material for the ninja to relax after their hard work.

For no particular reason, I decided to build the Temple in such a way that the Temple structure would be easy to remove from the rock base. At first, I was going to leave it so that the shadow mechanism would be easily accessible, but then I tiled the top, and that was that.

One thing that I was not able to achieve with this modification was to expand the bottom story to a more proportionate size. If you look closely, you can see that the bottom story behind the porch is smaller than the story above it (notice how the columns sit more in). This is quite out of line with the tapering pagoda-style building, but it seems to be the only way to leave enough room for the porch without significantly expanding the roof structure – which I did not have the parts for. However, this minor fault is only noticeable from certain angles, and even then it is easy to overlook.

On the whole, I am very pleased with the LEGO Ninjago Temple of Airjitzu (available at the Online LEGO Shop – see below), and have no qualms about displaying it prominently for all our guests to see. Not only that, but my modified version shows off to advantage, besides my brother’s bare-bones original standing just a few feet away. 😀

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So what do you think? How do you like the LEGO Ninjago Temple of Airjitzu? Do you have it already? How do you like it? Have you done any modifications yourself, or are you inspired to do some after seeing my version? Feel free to share in the comment section below! And if you have any questions about the changes I made, feel free to ask those as well! 😉

And you might also like to check out the following related posts:

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