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Brick Breakdown: LEGO Star Wars Razor Crest

(Written by William)

I must start off with two important points. First, depending on where you live, this set might be named The Mandalorian Prisoner Transport. This is primarily due to the fact that there was trouble securing the Razor Crest name in certain regions via trademark.

The Second important point I want to make is that I typically don’t build much in the way of Star Wars. Don’t get me wrong, I love the Star Wars franchise, but if I would get into LEGO Star Wars, I would probably have very little money to spend on other LEGO sets. So, apart from the massive #75192 LEGO Star Wars Ultimate Collector Series Millennium Falcon, the big #75187 LEGO Star Wars BB-8 model, and a whole slew of mini-scaled ships, I’ve built very few Star Wars sets.

But like many who subscribe to Disney Plus and subsequently watches The Mandalorian series, I knew when the #75292 LEGO Star Wars The Razor Crest was announced that I was going to buy it. Truth be told, I’m partial to Mandalorians in the Star Wars universe. Given the choice, I’d pick a Mando over a force-user. The long and short of it is, I have a lot of hype for this series and the set.

Add in the fact that this is the first set released to feature the child in minifigure scale, and it becomes hard to be objective about this model. Do I like it? Yes. Would I recommend it? Absolutely yes. Can I give an accurate critique of this set compared to other Star Wars ships? Not really, since as I said, I don’t build Star Wars sets that often. For that type of analysis, you may want to check out the reviews of experienced Star Wars builders. In the video below, I have included my overall thoughts on the set, and below that we will talk about the interesting building techniques found in the set. So, let’s get started!

LEGO RAZOR CREST MULTI-LEVEL PLATFORMS

In the Mandalorian TV show, many scenes happen on this ship. Trouble is, this is not a massive ship compared to others found in the Star Wars universe. So how does one go about creating the maximum amount of play room while still maintaining the stability you need for a ship you can fly around? Simple, by having multiple platforms you can play on.

Many of the large scaled LEGO vehicles I’ve put together feature a LEGO Technic frame that provides easy mobility and a strong building surface. Sometimes this layer is doubled on truly massive builds to provide additional shaping or stability. The #75192 LEGO Star Wars Ultimate Collector Series Millennium Falcon and the #71042 LEGO Star Wars Pirates of the Caribbean Silent Mary are two examples of this dual-layer structural platform technique.

However, the Razor Crest goes about it differently. I imagine that this is a technique used in other Star Wars ships as well. LEGO designers build one layer, then separate a second layer with some long beams. This, in short, creates a multi-floor design that is super sturdy, yet still large enough to fit a hand inside.

The interesting thing is that the two levels don’t have to be identical. For example, in the Razor Crest, the top layer sticks out a lot farther than the bottom. This does mean you will want to keep an eye out for where the weight of the model sits. In this case, LEGO designers frontloaded the ship with a denser concentration of parts giving it more weight so it wouldn’t tip backwards if left unattended.

The other interesting point about this technique is that if you just use Technic beams, it’s possible to have the second layer tilted at any angle you wish. That wasn’t done here, but is worth noting in case you have the need.

I tend to build things that are based on what we find in the real world. Essentially, the things I recreate have to deal with a planet’s gravity, and their designs reflect this in their structure. Spaceships aren’t necessarily built for landing on a planet. Just look at the Death Star or any Star Destroyer and you can tell that they weren’t designed to ever land anywhere.

In order to compensate for this, you are forced to use techniques like the dual layer platform to not only achieve impossible dynamic vehicle structures, but also to be able to play with and display these models. Because we like it or not, we are on this planet, and even our most fantastical spaceships have to remain practical. So, the two major points you’ll need to work out is to make sure that the beams are secured both horizontally and vertically. Failure to do this may mean your model will naturally fold in on itself. And second, keep an eye out on where the weight of your model is. Structurally, it can look amazing, but that’d all be spoiled if it always tips over.

LEGO STAR WARS RAZOR CREST FOLD-OUT WALLS

The only downside of using the multi-layer platform technique is that, even though it allows you to have extra layers, none of these layers are especially tall. You could potentially make the walls taller, but in the multi-layer technique, you’re limited by the types of beams or extensions you can use to separate the layers.

I was not sure how LEGO designers would overcome this obstacle for the lower level of the Razor Crest. Turns out, they made all the lower bulkheads fold out from the ship. Normally, a vehicle depends on its outer walls to hold itself together. However, the multi-platform technique handled all the major stability work. This meant the lower walls could be decorative.

Don’t think though that this is a way to solve all your tiny floor issues. The only reason why it works here is because you’re not dealing with a lot of depth. The low ceiling is still an issue to be dealt with. Additional accessibility is always handy. The problem is, the most accessible design is always open space. This is why we get some pretty complex models that slide and hinge open in addition to unfolding or having sections that can be lifted off completely. The idea is how to maintain stability while giving the most accessibility to open air as possible.

By being fairly narrow and accessible from two sides, the Razor Crest does an excellent job at promoting play. Plus, it can be folded up really quickly and it’s ready to fly. Of course, folding walls aren’t always an option. As stated before, you will need something else to provide a strong skeletal frame if you’re using this technique, since you won’t be relying on walls.

As for the hinging mechanism for the fold out, there are a few things to consider. First, the more points of contacts or hinges you use, the more stable a section will be. The back half of the ship uses six bar and clip connections on each side.

If you want a lot of control over the position of a section, you may consider a particular hinge, like the locking finger hinges found on the back ramp of the ship. Likewise, if you are only using a small area, like the middle of the ship, just using a pair of simple hinges can get the job done. And finally, if you add a bit more weight to a section, you can even mix and match hinges, like at the front of the ship where both locking finger hinges are used along with bars and clips. Notice how the locking finger hinges are up near the front where you have a little more weight concentrated due to the gun placements.

I should also mention that it is not necessary to fold the walls down like it is done in this set. However, over time, this will put less strain on the hinges compared to if they moved up. In general, it’s also a smarter design since the walls move towards the empty space. If they instead moved up into the ship or even sideways, you’d end up with crowding. Depending on what you build, try to aim to have the parts move towards empty space if what you need is more play room.

APPLYING WHAT YOU LEARN

Depending on the vehicle you create, you may have structural demands that you’re not quite prepared for. Moderate-sized spacecrafts, for instance, really seem to thrive when they are structurally supported by an internal core, which is then built outward. This differs from a standard ground vehicle that will be given a sturdy base and be constructed upwards. Using a dual-platform inner-structure is the simplest way to understand how you might create a structural base that works for ship models.

Additionally, using this method of structural design means you’ll need to develop solutions for basic issues. In the case of this ship, it was displaying and playing with the lower level of the ship. By understanding what the dual-layer platforms offer structurally, you could see where you have room for a little design freedom. Normally, walls are an essential component to most things you make. However, if that stability is provided elsewhere, you can then experiment with alternate functionality, like having the walls fold down.

The long and short of it is, when your creations are on the more exotic side, prepare to think a little more creatively about your underlying base supports. Many times, we get caught up on the detail work of something we love only to find out it is completely impractical. Hopefully, these are a couple of tools you can use to bring to life your most imaginative creations! And if you haven’t checked it out yet, the Razor Crest is available at the LEGO Star Wars section of the Online LEGO Shop.

What do you think? How do you like the LEGO Star Wars The Razor Crest? And what do you think of the techniques we discussed here? Have you used either of them in your own builds? If you have the set already, are there any other interesting techniques that you found? Feel free to share and discuss in the comment section below!

And you might also like to check out the following related posts:

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I recently built the #41423 LEGO Friends Tiger Hot Air Balloon Jungle Rescue set, so I thought to share my thoughts on it. This is one of the five sets from the new LEGO Friends Jungle Rescue collection that was developed in partnership with National Geographic, which is referenced at the end of the building instructions on a simple two-page spread.

My interest in this set was two-fold. First, I always wanted a LEGO hot air balloon, as it gives visual interest to LEGO city dioramas. And second, I wanted to take a closer look at the newly introduced trans-blue-opal color (called satin-trans-light blue on Bricklink) that is used for water in all five of the LEGO Friends Jungle Rescue series.

The #41423 LEGO Friends Tiger Hot Air Balloon Jungle Rescue is a good size set with 302 pieces that retails for $39.99. It features a jungle scene with a rock formation covered in vegetation, a waterfall cascading down the rocks, and caves hiding under. The landscape is really well designed with many nooks, corners, and hiding spaces. This landscape is the home of two baby tigers that are exclusive to this set, and their animal friends (turtle, frog, bird). Other animals (gecko, snail, butterflies, ladybug) can be added to the scene via the optional small sticker sheet.

The other part of the set is a hot air balloon with various accessories to help jungle creatures in need. So what could go wrong in such an idyllic setting? Well, the rock formation has two hidden play-features. One is a simple turn of a knob to throw the baby tigers in the water when they try to climb the branch sticking out over the waterfall. If you turn the knob one way, the baby tiger will plummet right down the waterfall. If you turn the knob the other way, the baby tiger will drop into the horizontal river section between the two waterfalls. At that time, you can activate the second play-feature. There is another knob at the back, that when turned, rattles the horizontal section from underneath, giving the impression of rapidly moving water. This causes the baby tiger to jiggle and eventually plummet down the waterfall. This is when Emma and Andrea (the two LEGO Friends mini-dolls included in the set) come to the rescue with their air balloon and rescue equipment.

I love this set. It’s really well designed, offering lots of play opportunities. The set is also very pretty with nice color-combinations (no weird colors at all!), and an excellent selection of parts for building landscaping and vegetation. But let’s focus on the initial reasons I got the set; the hot air balloon, and the new transparent-blue!

The curved panels that make up the balloon first appeared in 2015 in another LEGO Friends set, the #41097 LEGO Friends Heartlake Hot Air Balloon. Since then, the piece was used for various real-life and fantasy-based airships, air balloons, car fenders, and even the body of a giant octopus (#41373 LEGO Friends Funny Octopus Ride). However, the piece is still considered rare, as it only appeared in ten sets in total, and in seven different colors (dark-orange, magenta, red, lavender, dark-purple, white, and black).

As far as realistic hot air balloons, we get three examples. One is the aforementioned #41097 LEGO Friends Heartlake Hot Air Balloon with a magenta and white balloon. Although this air balloon had a nice design overall, I felt the basket was a little too big for the balloon, and thus passed on it. I was looking for a bit more refined design.

The second hot air balloon came in the #60130 LEGO City Prison Island set in 2016. The basket is smaller and simpler and I liked it better, but I didn’t want to get such a large set just for the air balloon. In addition, the red and black color combination wasn’t my favorite.

Then came this year’s set, the #41423 LEGO Friends Tiger Hot Air Balloon Jungle Rescue. It has a purple and white balloon and a redesigned basket using large curved bricks. I immediately fell in love with this balloon; loved the colors, the basket, and the rest of what is included in the set.

All three of the air balloons are designed pretty much the same way, using eight of the curved panels. The panels have clips at both of their ends, and they are clipped onto modified round plates with bars around their edge. This super secure and solid connection will not fall apart even during rough play. A LEGO Technic axle runs through the body of the balloon and then connects to the basket. The connection between the basket and balloon is also very secure with no chance of anything falling apart. The angled rods and clips between the balloon and the edge of the basket are just to make the whole contraption more realistic. They aren’t really needed for stability (in fact, the LEGO City air balloon doesn’t even have them). The basket has plenty of space for several minifigs or mini-dolls as well as equipment, and it also has bars along the edges to hang various items.

Once I built the balloon, I made some modifications. I added a LEGO string on top, so I can hang up the balloon over my city. I replaced some of the brighter colors of the basket with browns and grays. I also replaced the white angled rods and clips with black, and added more modified plates with bars around the edges to hang those red and yellow bumpers. And I added a gas tank like in the first LEGO Friends hot air balloon, and a red lever, which was an idea based on the videos I have seen on how hot air balloons are controlled. I also fit four minifigs (one operator and three passengers), and I could potentially add one more. I’m very happy with the final result, and will probably get some more curved panels in other colors to build more hot air balloons.

Now, let’s talk about those pretty trans-blue-opal (satin-trans-light-blue) parts. Opal (or satin on BrickLink) is a new color that was introduced this year. (For the sake of consistency, from now on, I will refer to the colors based on their name in the BrickLink catalog.) So far, we got satin-white in the LEGO DOTS sets, and satin-trans-black in a single set, the #43179 LEGO Disney Mickey Mouse & Minnie Mouse. Satin-trans-light-blue appears in all the new LEGO Friends Jungle Rescue sets, for the shell of some of the LEGO Friends Cubes, and in one LEGO Disney Storybook Adventures set. Satin-trans-purple is used for the shell of some of the LEGO Friends Cubes, in one of the LEGO DOTS bracelets, one LEGO Trolls figure, and in a small LEGO Disney set.

So far, I have some of the satin-white, satin-pink, satin-blue, and satin-purple pieces. It’s hard to describe these colors, but I would say that they are pearly, sparkly, and glowy at the same time. And depending on the light and angle, they are slightly translucent, similar to frosted glass. They work well for jewels, other small decorative pieces, and to represent water, but they wouldn’t work for windows or windscreens due to the material being too opaque.

In addition, the sparkly-ness and glowy-ness only show up from certain angles and under certain light conditions. From other angles, these satin colored plastics look like what’s used for cheap storage containers. This is not a problem for the small pieces and accessories due to their size – they still look pretty and unique – but it is definitely a deterrent for the larger pieces, like the curved panels used for the waterfalls. From some angles they sparkle and glow, and from other angles they look like cheap plastic. My guess is that LEGO is going to keep these as niche colors for accessories and decorative items, as they don’t seem to have much practical use otherwise.

In summary, I’m very pleased with the #41423 LEGO Friends Tiger Hot Air Balloon Jungle Rescue set. Although I originally got it for the balloon, I’m now thinking about getting some of the other LEGO Friends Jungle Rescue sets as well. As far as the satin colors, small items look pretty and unique, but for larger parts, these colors only look good in certain applications and under certain light conditions. If you would like to check out the LEGO Friends Jungle Rescue sets, visit the LEGO Friends section of the Online LEGO Shop.

What do you think? Do you have any of the hot air balloon sets? Which one is your favorite hot air balloon so far? And what do you think of the new opal/satin colors? Feel free to share your thoughts and discuss in the comment section below!

And you might also like to check out the following related posts:

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